Broken zip: repair it or replace it?
Worn slider, missing teeth or a torn-off bottom pin – how to tell whether a repair will do or you need a new zip.
What exactly is broken? The five most common faults
Before you reach for the pliers or buy a new zip, take a close look. Almost every fault falls into one of these five groups – and that decides whether a repair is enough.
| What you see | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The zip closes but opens again behind the slider | Worn slider | Replace the slider – the tape stays |
| The slider jams or is hard to pull | Fabric caught, dirt or dry teeth | Usually something you can fix yourself (see below) |
| One or more teeth are missing | Teeth broken out | New zip |
| On a jacket, the zip will no longer thread in | Bottom pin or box torn off | Usually a new open-ended zip |
| The slider slides right off at the top or bottom | End stop missing | Fit a new end stop and thread the slider back on |
A broken pull tab (the little handle on the slider), by the way, is not a zip fault: a small key ring or a new pull is all you need.
What you can do yourself
Jammed zip: If fabric is caught, don’t force the slider onwards – pull it back a little and carefully ease the fabric out as you go. If the slider is just stiff, rub the teeth with a soft pencil (graphite), a little candle wax or dry soap and move the slider back and forth a few times.
Zip opens behind the slider: With metal zips, a trick sometimes helps: pull the slider all the way down and, with flat-nose pliers, squeeze both sides of the slider very gently together – evenly and with little force. Too much pressure and the slider breaks or locks up. The fix often holds for a while, but it does not replace a new slider.
Avoid superglue on the teeth, snipping off teeth “to help it thread” and sticky tape on the zip tape. That turns a cheap slider repair into a complete replacement.
Repair or replace: which is worth it when?
A new slider is the cheapest repair – provided the tape and all the teeth are intact and there is a matching slider for the width and type of zip. With coil zips (plastic coil, e.g. on bags and dresses) and metal zips, this often works.
The whole zip has to be replaced if:
- teeth are missing or bent,
- the tape is torn or frayed,
- on a jacket, the bottom pin or the box has broken off,
- the zip has already been repaired several times and keeps coming open.
Rule of thumb: on a good jacket, a leather jacket or your favourite jeans, a new zip is almost always worth it – it will then last for years again.
How much does a new zip cost?
The price depends mainly on how much of the garment has to be opened up and closed again. A pair of jeans is done quickly; a lined winter jacket with a placket and chin guard takes considerably more work.
| Work | Our price |
|---|---|
| New zip in trousers or jeans, materials included | CHF 42.– |
| Jacket, coat, winter or down jacket | depending on the work |
| Leather jacket, leather bag | depending on the work |
| General sewing work | CHF 70.– per hour |
We give you the exact price once we have seen the item – before any work starts. All other prices are in our price list.
Jacket, jeans, leather, bag: what matters
Jeans and trousers: These have a closed-end zip, usually metal. It is sewn in with strong thread so the seam sits neatly again and stands up to everyday wear.
Jackets and coats: Open-ended zips take a lot of strain – especially at the bottom pin. On down jackets the work has to be clean so that no feathers escape. If the jacket needs cleaning anyway, it is worth having both done together (more in our guide Washing or dry cleaning a down jacket).
Leather: Leather does not forgive a wrong stitch – every hole stays visible. Wherever possible, we sew into the existing stitch holes. More about leather repair in Lucerne.
Dresses and skirts: These usually have a concealed (invisible) zip that should be barely visible from the outside. It is set into the seam and needs precision so the dress does not ripple.
How long does the repair take?
Simple jobs such as a new zip in a pair of jeans are often ready in one to two working days. Jackets and leather take a little longer, depending on how busy we are. If it is urgent – say your only winter jacket is affected – ask about our express service. More about how it works at our studio: Zip repair in Lucerne.
Frequently asked questions
Contact →Can a broken zip be repaired instead of replaced?
Yes, if only the slider is worn and the tape and teeth are intact. A new slider is then fitted. If teeth are missing or the tape is torn, you need a new zip.
How much does it cost to replace a zip in Switzerland?
At Zekos Express in Lucerne, a new zip in trousers or jeans costs CHF 42.–, materials included. Jackets, coats, leather and bags are charged by the work involved, and we tell you the price before we start.
Why does my zip keep coming undone?
Usually the slider is worn: it no longer presses the teeth together firmly enough. In most cases a new slider fixes the problem for good.
How do I fix a stuck zip?
Carefully pull trapped fabric out backwards, rub the teeth with pencil graphite, candle wax or dry soap and move the slider back and forth several times. Don’t use force.
Can the zip on a leather jacket be replaced?
Yes. We replace zips on leather jackets and leather bags in our own studio. Where possible, we sew into the existing stitch holes so that no new holes are visible.
Do I need an appointment?
No. Bring the garment to Sempacherstrasse 19 in Lucerne during opening hours, Monday to Saturday.
